Budapest, day 5: Communist Budapest

When I was young, I read a lot of spy novels. I loved Tom Clancy, Fredrick Forsyth, Robert Ludlum and such, and I thought it would be really cool to be a spy. (I also thought it would be really cool to be nuclear physicist, but that's another story.) I was practical enough to realize that I lacked the people skills and linguistic talent necessary to be a good field agent, but I did have a talent for going unnoticed. So while I prepared for the practical career of biochemist/molecular biologist, I also took classes in modern history (WWII and after), comparative government, and international relations--just in case. This was the 80's, so it was all about the Cold War. When the cold war suddenly ended, my interest in spies was relegated to the occasional Tom Clancy novel.

This trip to Eastern Europe did dust off my interest in the Cold War, and I hoped to meet somebody who remembered those times (and who spoke English and was willing to talk about it). When I discovered on the internet that there was a free walking tour dedicated to Communist Budapest, I knew that would be just my thing. The majority of participants on the tour were students, too young to remember the Cold War, but the guide was only 3 years younger than me. She had even lived in Sweden for a couple of years as a child, so she had a perspective on life in Budapest that may have been lacking in others her age.

As we walked through Budapest, she talked a lot about history, told some amusing anecdotes , and pointed out examples of communist era architecture. She showed us the former police headquarters, now a luxury hotel. We visited the last Soviet monument in Budapest, dedicated to the Soviets who died while "liberating" Budapest from the Germans. There were once many communist monuments and statues in Budapest, but many were destroyed with the fall of communism, and the others were exiled to a park outside of town.

In short, Hungarian history is all about being occupied. They sided with the Germans in WWI and lost 70% of their territory. They sided with the Germans again in WWII because they believed they would regain that territory. When things started going poorly for the Germans, they tired to break the alliance, and ended up occupied by the Germans instead. At the end of the war, the Germans retreated, trashing Budapest's infrastructure (most notably destroying all the bridges between Buda and Pest) to hinder the advance of the Red Army.

The Soviet occupiers promptly set up a puppet government in Budapest, and Hungary became a communist state. Those out of work after the war were quickly put to work rebuilding, so damage from WWII is not apparent. Housing was in short supply, so large buildings with small apartments were thrown together as fast as they could, but after the initial building boom, the financial realities kicked in, and maintenance was lacking.

The 1950s was all about Totalitarianism in Hungary. When Stalin died in 1953, people hoped things would lighten up a bit, and in 1956 the people of Budapest revolted. The revolt was crushed with Soviet tanks. Our guide's grandfather survived by hiding under the bodies of fellow protesters. Her father was able to sprint to safety as he saw a tank taking aim. Most families in Budapest have similar stories. In some parts of town, bullet holes from 1956 are still visible.

The national debt increased steadily over the years. In an attempt to raise money, Hungary became a tourist destination for the rest of Eastern Europe. In the 60s, East and West German families could reunite for vacations in Hungary.

Things were still very strict in the 1960s. "If you're not with us, you're against us," was the motto, and no dissent was tolerated, even in private. Neighbors spied on neighbors, and possible troublemakers were jailed. In the 1970's things began to loosen up a bit, and it was more, "If you're not with us, just don't be against us." Public dissent was not tolerated, but they were less concerned with what people did in the privacy of their own homes. Things became even more open in the 1980's. People did things like going to church and refusing to learn Russian in order to make political statements. People were still jailed for protesting, but there were music videos on TV and both Coca Cola and Pepsi (no McDonalds). Our guide had a bold English teacher who taught them George Orwell's Animal Farm and 1984 which previously had been banned.

Our guide was a Pioneer (like a Scout) as a child, and while this was once a precursor to being a Young Communist and then an adult member of the Communist Party, only two members of her class went on to join the Party. She modeled the red scarf of the Young Communists and showed the books that one had as a Pioneer and a Party member where one collected stamps through participation in Party activities. A full book showed your loyalty and could be advantageous in many ways.

In 1990, the communist regime fell. A new system was established based on the Swedish model, but the transition was far from painless. State owned assets were sold off, but corruption was rampant. People with the right connections got rich, but the State remained poor. Unemployment was and still is high. The average monthly income (after taxes) is only 500 Euros (~$400).

Before WWII, this building was the stock exchange. Communists, not having any need for a stock exchange, used this building for the government run TV station. As with much in Budapest, it is now in poor repair, but investors have stepped in, and it will soon be redone as a luxury hotel.

Our tour ended in a "ruin bar." Our guide explained that young people were allowed to run businesses or clubs in buildings which were awaiting renovation. While this doesn't seem very safe, I guess there are other advantages.